Dead? Not yet!

Greetings, This is a short post I wanted to make as it has been some time since the site had been last updated. Firstly, I had to learn a lot more about perfume making. It wasn’t as simple as just throwing stuff in a bottle to resell and definitely did not want to sell it that way. There is a lot of feeling to it that takes time to settle.

I’ve learned that doing all natural perfumes is also really hard to pull off. Even though it is awesome to try out these things, for now I am going the way of mixed media. There will be slight improvements this way as volatile and long lasting notes are much more achievable with synths. Plus you don’t need a whole lot of it to achieve the desired effect! So good news is that I’m still heavily doing naturals, but bad news for my natty folks is that I have been using slight additions of synths to get the desired effects.

My thanks to everyone that has purchased from me so far. I do not forget these things and in the future it will show in the form of my appreciation. My goals is to release the Big 3 perfumes that I would want to wear myself and could not live without. There is a lot of vintage feels to these 3 that I am building now and if you like that kind of thing well you’re in for a real treat!

I got a badass presentation box setup for Black Sea, Hope to capture some photos soon and really show everyone!

Natural Essential oils Vs. Synthetic Aroma chemicals, What’s the big deal?

As I embarked on my journey into the aromatic world of perfumery, I found myself enchanted by the alluring scents of Montblancs, Bath and Body Works, and Dior. However, over time, a certain fatigue set in. These fragrances, while potent, began to feel monotonous. Like a favorite song played on repeat at maximum volume, their charm waned, leaving me longing for silence rather than sensory pleasure. This, I realized, was the downside of synthetic-heavy perfumes: their relentless, unchanging chorus that lingers long after its welcome.

It made me want to go to the extremes and seek out only Natural fragrances, thinking to myself that it was better for me, my skin, and my senses! I wanted my perfumes to be something I could take back and breathe in while I’m working to remind myself how vast and beautiful our big and green planet is. However, the beauty of nature is melanchously fleeting. They tend to be basenote heavy as top notes like citrus are volatile and don’t forget your skin loves to eat up whatever touches it thus adding to the performance issues.

Yet, I cannot dismiss the utility of synthetics entirely. They serve more than just a cost-saving function. Consider Mitti Attar, for example. In India, this fragrance is crafted through a labor-intensive process involving sandalwood oil and clay pots, capturing an earthy, petrichor-rich aroma. While enchanting, it's neither practical nor economical for widespread perfumery. Enter Geosmin – a volatile, earthy-smelling terpene that can mimic Mitti Attar's essence. By blending it with quality sandalwood, one can create a semblance of the original at a fraction of the cost. However, this innovation raises ethical concerns, especially regarding trust and authenticity in the industry, a sentiment particularly poignant when it comes to prized scents like oud.

The debate between naturals and synthetics extends to skin safety as well. Take cinnamon oil, a natural essence whose constituent, Cinnamaldehyde, can cause irritation akin to a burn, hence its strict regulation by the IFRA. In contrast, synthetic variants like Cinnamic Nitrile and Methyl Cinnamic Aldehyde offer a safer alternative. This illustrates a critical point: the safety of a fragrance is dictated by its constituents, regardless of whether it's natural or synthetic. However, synthetics are not without their faults. Consider Galaxolide, a synthetic musk found in numerous commercial perfumes. Its toxicity to aquatic life, even detected in riverbeds, is a glaring example of the environmental impact some synthetic fragrances can have. So people might say, well fuck the fish. They couldn’t be more ignorant, all bodies of water, even our own public water, are filtered just enough to make it passable to the government standards. When you drink that public water, there will ALWAYS be trace amounts of materials like contraception medicine, metals, and even Galoxilide

In my view, natural oils should form the backbone of perfumery, with synthetics used judiciously to enhance and complement. This approach mirrors our relationship with technology: while we rely on computers for knowledge and entertainment, overdependence can lead to antisocial tendencies. A balance is essential. For instance, natural citrus oils, known for their fleeting top notes, can be supported by a hint of Tangerinol. This not only extends the longevity of the citrus aroma but also preserves its natural essence.

Preferences in fragrance, as in all things, vary widely. Some may favor the overt synthetic scents of a Barbie doll factory or incense, while others might prefer more subtle, natural aromas. However, moderation should always be a guiding principle. Overpowering scents, whether bubblegum pink or heavy synthetic men's creams, can create an invasive and often unpleasant atmosphere. It's about finding that perfect balance – a harmony of notes that enhances rather than overwhelms our sensory experience.

Why I started this Project

I have been in love with fragrances ever since I stole some spritzes from my Dad’s Dior Fahrenheit as a child. It was spicy, dry, and definitly something an older man would wear! I look back on those days fondly, went through the “axe” phase every teenager does, and in my young adult life I shopped from Lvnea primarily as their scents are very unique! Especially their Dagger Moon, It was sooo good! The crushed leaves, earthy coffee, and some palo santo to perk it up a bit. I have been a fan for quite some time.

It inspired me to start my own line of fragrances, but why? I will admit, Anyone can just look at some notes and blend them. A lot of these techniques employed are from french perfumers of old. It’s not reinventing the wheel, but keeping the wheel moving. I find it hard looking for natural scents without the aromachemicals being the dominant note. Again nothing wrong with that, but for myself I enjoy the natural aromas of oils. It’s almost like a song that you prefer in acoustic, rather than digital. There’s just something special about it.

Admittidely, I grew tired of the “Artsinal” and “exclusive” short selling of Fragrances by niche houses. They would either sell out too fast or get scalped up to the high heavens on Ebay. Some perfumes can cost upwards of $300+ for a 50ml bottle and you have to believe in the Perfumer to not load the header notes with synths out the Wahoo! Oud is a huge a culprit as it is very easy to compound! Little Nagarmotha/Cypriol here and Terpenoids there, maybe a splash of Oud Assafi by Firmenich and you got yourself a pretty realistic oud!

I hope to bring Ashenfume a variety of ideas that may be challenging to most, but the variety will be there I can promise you that!